The 4.9-rated tandem flights over the coast, canyoning in volcanic gorges, marlin boats from Los Gigantes marina and the island’s surf schools.

Fire-proof pines, dragon trees of uncertain age, lizards with blue war-paint, night-calling seabirds, and the giant lizard hiding in the cliffs you look at every day.

Masca’s permit system explained, the Chinyero volcano loop, ridge walks with goat’s cheese at the end, and the safety habits this terrain demands.

Which beach for which day: local black sand, the south’s Blue-Flag golden bays, wild Benijo and the lava pools locals swim when the swell is up.

Whale watching with the boats guests rate highest, kayaking under 500-metre cliffs, black-sand beaches and the Masca gorge: how to fill a week in Los Gigantes.

The tables guests rate highest, what to order, and the story of the two-Michelin-star restaurant that started in this village.

Airport transfers and realistic taxi fares, the coastal and mountain bus lines, contactless fares, and whether you need a hire car at all.

Six-million-year-old basalt, the Guanches’ “Wall of Hell”, an eruption within living memory and the fishing shore that became a resort.

Market mornings in Alcalá and Playa San Juan, almond blossom above the clouds, and the lava-built harbour town of Garachico.